Ly Son Island: Untouched paradise in Vietnam

Discover the pristine beauty of Ly Son Island, Vietnam. This guide covers everything from top attractions to how to get to Ly Son Island. Ly Son Island Vietnam, a small archipelago off the coast of Quang Ngai Province in central Vietnam, welcomes visitors with its wild beauty and serene atmosphere. This undiscovered gem, or Cu Lao Re, is a haven for tourists seeking an authentic Vietnamese experience. This island retreat is rich in the best of nature and culture and thus an absolute destination for travelers who venture beyond tourist routes.

Introduction to Ly Son Island: A hidden gem in Vietnam

Ly Son Island, also named Cu Lao Re, is a district of Quang Ngai province in central Vietnam. The district, which has been largely overlooked by mass tourism (apart from My Lai), comprises two main inhabited islands: Ly Son (Big Island) and Small Island, with a combined population of approximately 20,000. Ly Son Island itself is divided into two communes, An Vinh (west) and An Hai (east), which are further subdivided into two villages: Thon Tay (Western village) and Thon Dong (Eastern village).

Small Island is its own commune, An Binh. Ly Son Vietnam is geologically a group of extinct volcanic craters rising out of the sea. These craters formed millions of years ago, are a feature of the island’s landscape, being boldly visible even from satellite photos. The island is surrounded by a reef, a natural seawall that protects it from the fury of the open sea, with the result of a constant, far-off rumble of waves.

Ly Son’s history is a very long journey. There is archaeological proof of a Sa Huynh, then Champa kingdom, presence before colonization by the Vietnamese in the 17th century. The Xo La Well, dating from the Cham periods, provided fresh water for ships sailing by. The Americans utilized the island as a radar base during the Reunification War. Moreover, Whale worship is deeply ingrained in the local culture, reflecting the islanders’ close relationship with the sea.

Ly Son Vietnam has a military presence, both due to its island status and due to territorial disputes in the South China Sea. The island economy relies on seafood, garlic, and other alliums, and tourism, which is increasingly dominant and probably the dominant sector in the future. Also, Ly Son people have distinctive facial features and a unique accent, setting them apart from mainlanders.

Introduction to Ly Son Island: A hidden gem in Vietnam

The best time to visit Ly Son Island

The best time to go to Ly Son Island is from March to September, when the weather is usually warm, sunny, and dry, with clear seas. The months of March, April, and September are especially good as they fall outside the main Vietnamese summer holiday season, thus the island is less crowded. In contrast, during the period between November and February, the island has cold temperatures, cloudy weather, and high rainfall.

Things to see & do at Ly Son Island

Ly Son Island Vietnam offers a list of activities to engage in, from exploring its volcanic landscape to viewing its coastline. Getting around the island is an adventure in itself, and motorbiking and hiking are preferred methods.

Riding, hiking & motorbiking

Ly Son’s small size also makes it easily accessible by motorbike or on foot. A motorbike ride down the seaside roads offers a refreshing breeze and stunning coastal views, while cycling along village roads offers a glimpse of actual village life and peaceful scenery. Trekking is excellent on Dao Be (Small Island), accessed by a short boat ride. While it is less convenient in that it is not a rental option, motorbiking is a highly recommended way of getting around Ly Son Vietnam. Motorbikes are available for rent at most accommodation places (100,000 VND to 150,000 VND per day), making it easy to reach the island’s many roads.

The roads are mostly in good condition but some can be narrow, sandy, or bumpy and should be ridden carefully. A web of roads spans the western, southern, and parts of the eastern and northern shores, and inland routes wind through the garlic fields that characterize the island’s interior. There’s a new seafront road connecting the port at the Western Village (Thon Tay) with the To Vo rock arch, and the coastal road around the southeastern tip, from Mu Cu marina to Hang Cau cliffs, is open, though work is still in progress. It is interesting to mention that some areas, particularly around the volcanic craters, are closed off because they are under military control.

Mountains, craters, volcanoes & viewing points

Volcanic origin has created a spectacular landscape for Ly Son Vietnam, with at least five extinct craters of various sizes. Craters and other viewpoints offer spectacular panoramic vistas.

Nui Thoi Loi Crater: The summit of Ly Son, Nui Thoi Loi offers wonderful vistas near its summit. A paved road passes cliffs and the Ly Son Flagpole, providing access to hiking trails along the rim. The road scenes, especially at the lookout point and lay-by, are particularly fascinating in the late afternoon when sea and garlic fields are gently lit. The Ho Thoi Loi slip-road gives perhaps the best photo on the island, with a trail along the edge of the crater revealing the vast extent of this ancient volcano. The crater is currently occupied by a freshwater lake, lined with casuarina trees.
Nui Gieng Tien Crater: Halfway up this crater, accessed by a stairway at the rear of the Goddess of Mercy statue, visitors are treated to stunning views of Dao Be and the endless stretch of open sea. The summit itself is closed, but even from this point, the view of barren volcanic hills and tortured rock formations is a stark reminder of the island’s fiery past. The air is filled with mystery and wonder as though entering an ancient realm shaped by nature’s wild forces.
Other craters: A little further south of the island, next to Thon Tay, lies Nui Hon Vung, a smaller volcanic crater that served as the site for a war martyrs’ cemetery. Higher up in the center of Ly Son rises the larger Nui Hon Soi, with a neat cemetery at its northeastern corner offering a picturesque viewpoint. From this tranquil viewpoint, visitors can have a feeling of respect and reflection, surrounded by the island’s history and stunning beauty.
To Vo Rock Arch: Small as it is, To Vo Rock Arch is one of the most dramatic landmarks of Ly Son Vietnam. Nestled beneath the natural arch, with the peaceful blue waters yawning to infinity, you would feel a sense of connection with the island’s raw beauty. At the right moment – when the sun sets beautifully through the arch – the environment is transformed into a magical game of light and darkness, with the visitors in awe of nature’s craftsmanship. However, being as popular as it is, the ideal moment to witness its serene beauty is during the time away from the tourist-congested sunrise and sunset hours.
Ly Son lighthouse: Constructed in the French colonial period, Ly Son Lighthouse was restored in the 21st century, now resembling a grey, thin rocket. Visitors must walk through the ochre-yellow French original structure at its foundation, an old-fashioned historical touch, to access it. Reaching the summit of the lighthouse involves climbing more than 150 steep wooden stairs, but the reward is worth it: breathtaking views. From the top, you have a view of the whole southern and eastern landscapes of Ly Son Island, from the sheer cliffs of Nui Thoi Loi Crater, Hang Cau Cliffs, to the marina at Thon Dong, and the famous garlic fields to Thon Tay village. The refreshing sea wind, the oceanic blue horizon, and the vast expanse of landscapes conjure up an instant of complete exhilaration and awe, making the trip well worth the trouble.

Beaches & islands

While Ly Son lacks the common tropical island beaches, the ones that it has are simply stunning. In fact, Ly Son and Dao Be Island, which are nearby, have some of Vietnam’s most dramatic coastal views. The sea is in excellent condition with turquoise-blue waters as clear as a mirror. Swimming, however, is made problematic by reefs, waves, and rocky ocean floors. It can be managed by seasoned swimmers, but it might not be for those less comfortable in the open water who would prefer to be gazing at the scenery rather than plunging in. Nevertheless, snorkeling is incredible, and Ly Son is just waiting to be a hidden paradise for surfing and kite-surfing – although visitors must provide their own equipment, as rentals have yet to be arranged.

Hang Cau Beach & cliffs: Arguably Vietnam’s most handsome and most picturesque beach, Hang Cau is a crescent of white coral sand between the sweeping contours of a cave-filled cliff face. On the north side of the island, reefs offshore break the waves to keep the beach safe from violent swells. The sea is very transparent, and the mist created by ocean spray blown onto the cliffs adds to the mystical ambiance. For a less crowded experience, go on a weekday morning before 4 PM, when you can have this beautiful spot all to yourself.
Chua Duc Beach: Situated beneath the rocky cliffs where a towering statue of the Goddess of Mercy stands, Chua Duc Beach stretches for about a kilometer along the beach, its coral-bleached white sand. The sea is crystal clear and takes on an inviting hue, with a reef offshore creating a reliable break in the waves. This is an exposed, rocky, and visually striking coastline which is a suitable place for snorkeling and swimming. Although the water remains clean, litter tends to dirty the sand from time to time.
Chua Hang Beach: Situated in a cove near Chua Hang Cave and Shrine, this picturesque northern beach is better for viewing than swimming. The brilliant white sand, formed by the erosion of coral, rests against volcanic rock formations, creating an aesthetically pleasing shoreline. While the water is clear, offering good wading and snorkeling, reefs cause waves to churn, making it less ideal for swimming.
Mu Cu (Former) Islet: Where there used to be a small islet, there now remains Mu Cu as the eastern extremity of Ly Son, attached to the Thong Dong Marina via a fresh sea wall. A fine observation spot is offered by the red-and-white lighthouse while strolling or biking along the sea wall provides an enjoyable walk.
Dao Be Island: A charming little island located to the north of Ly Son, Dao Be is a must-see. Every morning, visitors are ferried there in 10 minutes by speedboat, catching a glimpse of its untainted beauty. Small in size but overflowing with natural beauty, the island is best explored on foot rather than by buggy, allowing visitors to drive down its narrow paved roads and circumnavigate the entire island in about an hour or two.

Since return boats depart after three hours, there’s enough time to explore, take a swim, and enjoy a drink. However, if your schedule allows, spending the night at one of the affordable and rustic homestays is highly recommended. The island’s interior is divided into neat, rectangular plots, bordered by volcanic rock terraces, where garlic and peanuts are the primary crops. Scattered among them, coconut palms, banana plants, and screwpines add to the lush landscape.

Religious sites & architectural landmarks

Ly Son Island is home to numerous temples, pagodas, shrines, and places of worship. Most of the old buildings have fallen to newer structures over the last few years, but some older, historically important sites remain hidden in the side streets of the island. Following are a couple of the important sites to explore.

Quan Am Statue, Phat Mau Temple & Cemetery: Off in the northwestern corner of Ly Son is a gigantic 50-meter-high statue of the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, Quan Am. This white-as-snow-painted giant stands looking out over the wide ocean as its base lies over island graves and land committed to Ly Son’s renowned garlic production. Behind the statue, there is a stairway that takes tourists up to Gieng Tien Mountain. Next to it is Phat Mau Temple, whose facade is decorated, and at the back of which there are hundreds of brightly painted tombs distributed across the lower reaches of Mount Gieng Tien – a staggering spectacle, especially from the new road along the seawall.
Ly Son Cemetery: Located at the base of Nui Hon Soi Mountain, this large cemetery is the island’s largest. A broad stone staircase ascends to a viewing platform that offers a panoramic view of countless tombs as well as the surrounding garlic fields.
Chua Hang Cave Temple: In the island’s northernmost tip, Chua Hang Cave Temple is situated in a remarkable natural setting. It’s a popular site, so be prepared for some tourists and local vendors offering souvenirs. A rock path leads to a beautiful cove with white sand beaches, bordered by dramatic volcanic cliffs. In the midst of this idyllic landscape, a serene statue of Quan Am sits among a cluster of frangipani trees, with the sea in sight. But the spiritual site lies concealed behind the cliffs, where steps descend into a low but spacious cave. With its scent of incense wafting, this venerable temple belongs to the Cham civilization. Inside, shrines, tombs, and altars line the edges of the cave, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. Visitors have to take off their shoes to walk on the cave floor.
Historic Temples & Church: A cluster of ancient temples, shrines, and a traditional village hall runs along a peaceful, tree-lined coast between Thon Tay and Thon Dong villages. A small church is also located nearby, adding to the area’s historic charm.
Whale Temple: Unlike those rather grander whale temples in the rest of Vietnam, this humble but festive shrine has the skeletal remains of whales and dolphins, together with some other marine animals. Instead of being deliberately placed for display, however, the bones here are simply piled in a corner.

Villages & communes

Ly Son Island is divided into two administrative units named communes, but it is more suitable to say districts. They are An Vinh, the western half of the island, and An Hai, the eastern half. What is interesting is that both communes have villages with the same names: Thon Tay (Western village) and Thon Dong (Eastern village).

An Vinh Commune

The principal port, where mainland speedboats arrive, is located in Thon Tay village of An Vinh Commune. It is the commercial and tourist hub of the island with a concentrated selection of hotels, cafes, seafood restaurants, street food stalls, and island shops. The busiest part of Ly Son, Thon Tay has all the amenities but not much character, with incessant room and tour soliciting.

A brief coastal drive distinguishes Thon Tay from Thon Dong village, which is quieter by comparison and attracts fewer visitors. It is here that Ly Son’s principal market is located. Nevertheless, this peaceful environment may soon be a thing of the past with the development of a new port in front of the Muong Thanh Hotel, set to be completed within the year.

An Hai Commune

Thon Tay village in An Hai Commune logically extends from An Vinh’s Thon Dong along the coastline. On the other hand, Thon Dong village in An Hai, in the southeastern corner of the island, possesses its own character. Stretching along the curve of a bay at the foot of Thoi Loi Mountain’s crater, it offers a peaceful, picturesque atmosphere. However, here there are fewer opportunities for dining and accommodation.

The village’s fishing port is being supplemented by seawalls to protect it from rough water. While construction is still in progress, the new seawalls will soon provide better protection for the fishing port, making it a more pleasant area for visitors. The small Vietnamese fishing fleet is anchored here alongside some elderly tugboats. Strolling along the narrow alleys of Thon Dong reveals beautiful homes with sun-dried shallots and garlic, green shrubs, and bougainvillea, which add to the village’s quaintness.

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Practical travel tips for Ly Son Island

A trip to Ly Son Island Vietnam requires some preparation. Here are some practical travel tips to ensure that your journey is smooth and enjoyable:

How to get to Ly Son Island: The primary way to reach Ly Son Island is by ferry or speedboat from Sa Ky Port in Quang Ngai Province. Ferries operate regularly, but it’s advisable to book tickets in advance, especially during peak season. Speedboats are a faster option, but they can be more expensive. Understanding how to get to Ly Son Island is crucial for planning your trip.
Accommodation: There are different accommodation facilities on Ly Son Island, from budget-friendly guesthouses to comfortable hotels. It is recommended to book your accommodation beforehand, especially in the peak season.
Transport on the island: The most typical transport on Ly Son Island Vietnam is motorbikes. You can easily rent a motorbike from your hotel or local shop. Otherwise, you may take a taxi or a local bus.
Food and beverage: Ly Son Island is famous for fresh seafood. Be sure to try the local delicacies, such as grilled fish, seafood noodles, and sea urchins. Some local restaurants serve Vietnamese food.
Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND) is Vietnam’s official currency. It’s best to get your currency exchanged before reaching Ly Son because the island does not have extensive currency exchange arrangements.
Respect local customs: Dress properly while visiting temples and pagodas. Ask for permission before taking photos of locals. Respect local customs and traditions.

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Ly Son Island, with its magical blend of volcanic landscapes, pristine beaches, and authentic Vietnamese culture, offers a travel experience unlike any other. From exploring its ancient craters and snorkeling among a kaleidoscope of coral reefs to simply lying on its peaceful shores, Ly Son is a soothing escape from the ordinary. Whether you’re seeking adventure, tranquility, or a feeling of belonging to the local culture, this off-the-beaten-path gem in the center of Vietnam promises an experience you’ll never forget. As tourism develops on Ly Son, there’s no time like the present to learn about its untapped beauty and enjoy the island’s unique charm before it changes forever. Therefore, pack your bags, be daring, and prepare to be enchanted by the magic of Ly Son Island Vietnam.